HOW TO PRODUCE VASELINE ( SKIN JELLY)

Vaseline is the Trade name given to a smoothing ointment made from 100% pure petroleum jelly which was invented by a young chemist called Robert Chesebrough in U.S in 1859 when he travelled to Titusville (a small town in Pennsyvania) where the oil workers were using an unrefined form of petroleum jelly called rod wax. For this reason, he began to study the substance( rod wax) through various processes of refinement and purification( distillation process) until he was able to get a lighter and a more transparent gel which is the vaseline we use today also known as "Wonder Jelly".

Vaseline is a blend of mineral oils and waxes which works by creating a sealing barrier between cells in dry or damaged skins and thereby locks in moisture and speeds up natural recovery and healing the skin from within,the main ingredient in vaseline production is peroleum jelly.

Vaseline is often used everyday in our homes. As long as human population continues to grow so also the need for vaseline will grow, this makes vaseline a high lucrative business both in Nigeria and in other countries of the world. The business is not gender specific, it can be done by both male and female gender, whereas both gender can apply on their skin .

Even though many creams in the stores have been an alternative for vaseline, still vaseline is still in high demand all over the world because:

1.It doesn't cause skin reaction

2. It is used to prevent inflammation caused by heat generated from prolonged used of diapers

3. It is used in the laboratory to prevent air from entering specimen hence,it is used for sealing cover slip

4. It is used to keep the body warm during cold season

5. It is used as a lubricant

6. It is a water repellant

7. It is used to prevent cracked heels, lips,and skin

8. It is used as polish to polish surfaces such as shoes and bags

9. It is used to prevent rusting of metal surfaces

10. It is used to prevent split ends in hair.

start carrying vaseline along with you in your purse when moving out because you might need it to soften your hand when you enter the resturant. if you are a mom, you might need it when changing your baby's diaper and you might need it during hash weather to protect your lips from drying out.

The process of vaseline production is very simple provided the raw material( ingredients) are readily available; in the production of vaseline, water is NOT needed, paraffin oil serves as water.

Ingredients and thier functions in vaseline production

1. Paraffin oil 6 table spoons- This is the oil that helps to reduce thickness of vaseline since water is not needed in the production. it has a healing and a nourishing ability

2. petroleum jelly 1 and 1/2 cup- This is a nourishing agent that helps to thicken and hold the vaseline together

3. Paraffin wax 2 teaspoons- This helps to holds the mixture together

4. Lanolin 1 table spoon- This ingredients gives the the vaseline an elastic feel, making it appear thick

5. Fragrance ( as desired)- It gives a nice flavour or scent to your vaseline

6. Vitamine E (1 table spoon)- It serves as an anti-oxidant for nourishing dry and crack skin

you can choose to add colour or not to your vaseline . the colour ranges from blue, green, yellow, brown to neutral.

Production Process of vaseline

- Drop a clean pot on a heat ( stove),add the paraffin oil,paraffin wax,petroleum jelly and lanolin and allow them dissolve and mixed properly

- Add Vitamin E and allow it to dissolve

- Drop the pot from heat and wait for it to cool down a bit

- Then add the the Fragrance and scoop into already used vaseline container and allow it to settle in side the container while cooling gently.

You can get vaseline container from any big market that specializes on plastics business to enable you customize your product for sale, most times, the shops that sell chemical or scientific laboratory items usually sale the containers too. you can enquire from them. now that you have known how to make vaseline, learn how to make your own moisturizing body cream, perfume and hair cream. remember you can be your own boss controlling what comes into your your skin and hair.

I made these sandals a few weeks ago and have since taken a trip to the mountains in them so I can attest to their sturdiness. I did a lot of research to make these because I couldn't find a single tutorial with all the information I needed, hopefully this tutorial answers every leather sandal- making question you can ponder. This is a lengthy but simple process, no leather working experience should be necessary.

Step 1: Materials

Materials I Used:
1. Leather - How much, what thickness, what color, and what kind is completely up to you, I will offer more guidance on leather choice later on.
2. Contact Cement - Every pro cobbler tutorial uses Barge contact cement, I used some Wilsonart 500 contact cement intended for use on laminate countertops because I had it lying around, as long as it is strong waterproof and dries flexible it should work.
3. Leather Awl - my leather Awl is very nice it has a spot for a spool and the bottom holds extra needles but any leather needle Awl will do.
4. Exacto Knife and Scissors
5. Hammer
6. Something to Cut on - A marble tile is ideal but a ceramic tile or a piece of wood will work too. Plastic mats are not ideal.
7. Masking Tape
8. Construction Paper
9. Gel Super Glue
10. Leather Cord/ Lacing - This will be for the ankle tie strap.

Step 2: Choosing Leather

To begin with I would highly suggest buying your leather from somewhere you can feel it. I don't know a lot about leather grades or types or tanning processes, and I buy all of my leather as scraps, so I didn't buy any leather for this project specifically.
I used two layers of cowhide and one layer of kangaroo leather, I do know that kangaroo leather is readily available in a wide variety of colors which is how I got the bright teal top sole. It is also not necessary to use three layers, a top and bottom sole are all that you need but I wanted to use the very thin kangaroo leather for my top sole and I did not want to feel the straps under my feet so I knew I would need a midsole.
For my straps I used a piece of cow leather that did not stretch when I tested it, this is the most important aspect of the strap leather.
My leathers approximate thicknesses are:
Teal top sole: 1mm
Mid-sole: 3mm
Bottom sole: 1cm
Straps: 3mm
This makes the distance between my foot and the ground around 14mm, if you want more than that you can either use more or thicker leather or glue a *cringe* rubber sole to the bottom of your shoe.
These are very durable at this thickness and even with them worn in I don't really feel rocks under my feet, but I also enjoy walking barefoot, so to each their own.
My final suggestion on choosing your leather is that if you source it from somewhere random like I have you should test it with water and sandpaper to see how it will wear/ if the dye will release.

Step 3: Patterning

This step is pretty self-explanatory, get out your construction paper and trace your foot, take that and make it shoe-shaped, and then make one that is it's mirror. After you have two soles, you will want to figure out your straps.
I cut a bunch of 1-inch strips of construction paper and fit the straps on my foot and then bent them where they went under, and masking taped them on until I had them all finished. after this I detached the straps again and set them aside so I could use the sole.

Step 4: Cut Out Your Soles and Straps

Lay out the patterns on the leather, mark it with a pen on the side you won't see, and cut them out. for thin leathers like my blue one you may need to tape it down to create tension in order to cut it out with a knife. I didn't take photos of cutting out the straps but I just used a ruler to keep the knife straight and used the patterns to measure.

Step 5: Contact Cement Take 1

1. ONLY USE CONTACT CEMENT IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA SUCH AS THE OUTDOORS
2. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON YOUR CONTACT CEMENT NOT ALL CONTACT CEMENT IS CREATED EQUAL
3. USE GLOVES
Now that I am done yelling at you, I set up my contact cement station at the door of a garage on a piece of old wood. I taped down my soles so they wouldn't move when I painted on the glue and I sanded them so they would adhere better. Make sure you get the glue all the way to the edges. Once it is on allow it to dry until it is sticky but does not pull away with your (gloved) finger. Stick them together making sure to line them up carefully because there is no going back, smooth them out, lay another piece of scrap wood or something flat on top, and something heavy like a paint can and allow them to dry for a while. This is not totally necessary, they can be worked with immediately but I wanted to be safe, and I had other things to do in the meantime.

Mothering chicken eggs is not for everyone, but if you think it might be your calling, here’s how to do it.

Once a hen lays a clutch of eggs, instincts take over. They constantly fuss over them, adjusting them just so throughout the day and rarely leaving the nest for more than a few minutes. Motherhood is a big responsibility for a young hen—if she’s the least bit neglectful, her babies will never hatch. Or worse, they may hatch with deformities.

Modern chickens, it turns out, are not always very effective mothers. Whether it’s genetic or culture, who knows, but they get distracted, other hens oust them from their nest, the rooster comes by…there’s no shortage of things that can go wrong. For this reason, most farmers and backyard chicken enthusiasts don’t trust incubation to their hens, they take it upon themselves to do the brood work instead. You can also buy day-old chicks and skip the incubation process, but it costs more. Plus, why would you want to miss out on an opportunity to experience one of life’s miracles?

STEP 1 — SET UP AN INCUBATOR

Depending on how many eggs they accommodate and how automated they are, Incubators run from around $50 for the homesteader favorite ‘Hova-Bator’ into the thousands of dollars for commercial scale incubators. With top-of-the-line incubators, you put in an egg, close the door and out pops the chick three weeks later. You can also go the DIY route, which saves money, but is almost as much work as sitting on the eggs yourself. No matter how fancy or jerry-rigged, all incubators must accomplish a few basic things:

Temperature: The eggs need to be kept at 99.5 degrees at all times; just one degree higher or lower for a few hours can terminate the embryo.

Humidity: 40 to 50 percent humidity must be maintained for the first 18 days; 65 to 75 percent humidity is needed for the final days before hatching.

Ventilation: Egg shells are porous, allowing oxygen to enter and carbon dioxide to exit; incubators need to have holes or vents that allow fresh air to circulate so the fetuses can breathe.

Homemade versions usually involve some sort of insulated box—a cheap Styrofoam cooler will do. An adjustable heating pad or a light bulb on a dimmer switch will suffice for the heat source and a pan of water with a sponge in it will make the air humid. Low-end commercial incubators don’t amount to much more than this, but the more you pay, the more automated the temperature and humidity controls will be.

A high-quality thermometer and hygrometer (a device to measure humidity) are the most important tools of incubation; cheap models are usually not accurate enough. If you’re not working with an incubator that has these instruments built in, opt for a combo thermometer/hygrometer with an external display. These have a sensor that goes inside the incubator with an LED screen on the outside that shows the temperature and humidity readings without having to open the incubator and ruin your carefully calibrated environment.

One time-saving feature is a device to rotate the eggs automatically. Much of the fussing that a hen does over her eggs comes from an evolutionary instinct to constantly move them about. The finely tuned ecosystem inside a chicken egg is kept in balance by constantly changing the position of the egg. High-end incubators have a built-in egg turning device, but there are also standalone egg turners that can be placed inside a homemade incubator to do the job. Or, you can rotate manually according to the instructions below.

The incubator should be placed in a location with the least possible fluctuation in temperature and humidity throughout the day—a basement is ideal, a sunny window is not.

STEP 2 — FIND FERTILE EGGS

If you already have a flock of chickens that includes a rooster, the majority of the eggs they lay will be fertile. Collect them as soon as possible after laying and transfer to the incubator. If you don’t already have chickens, find a friend or a nearby farmer who does and ask if you can buy some fertile eggs. Websites like Craigslist and BackyardChickens.com are a good way to link with people that may have eggs to spare. Some feed stores sell fertile eggs in the spring and there are many suppliers that sell eggs online.

The closer to home, the better the egg source. The jostling about and fluctuations in temperature and humidity that occur during transport are hard on the developing fetus. Hatching rates on eggs straight from the coop are often in the 75 to 90 percent range; with mail-order eggs, there is no guarantee that any will hatch.

When picking eggs to incubate, use those that are clean, well-formed and full-size. Above all, do not clean the eggs—there is a naturally occurring coating that is vital to the success of the embryo. Wash your hands before handling and be as gentle as possible, as the embryos are extremely susceptible to damage from sudden movements.

Ideally, the eggs are transferred directly to the incubator, but it’s possible to store them in egg cartons if needed. Kept at temperatures between 50 and 60 degrees and 75 percent humidity, the development of the eggs can be delayed for up to ten days without sacrificing the viability of the embryos. However, they must be stored with the fat side of the egg pointed up to keep the embryo alive.

STEP 3 — INCUBATE

It takes 21 days on average for an egg to hatch once incubation begins. Before placing the eggs inside, turn on the heat source and measure the temperature and humidity over a 24-hour period, making adjustments as necessary to create the optimal environment. If the humidity is too high or low, use a sponge with more or less surface area to adjust it. Raise and lower the temperature of the heat source in tiny increments until the thermometer reads 99.5.

Once the incubator is functioning properly, it’s just a matter of maintaining the environment until the chicks hatch. Place the eggs on their side in the incubator, close the door and check the levels religiously to make sure nothing goes askew. Water may have to be added to the pan occasionally to keep the humidity up. At day 18, add more water to boost the humidity level.

If you’re going to turn the eggs yourself, there is a standard method to mimic the efforts of a hen:

Draw an ‘X’ on one side of the egg and an ‘O’ on the other to keep track of which eggs have been turned.
At least three times a day, gently turn the eggs over; more frequent turning is even better, but the number of turns per day should be odd (3,5,7 etc.) so that the eggs are never resting on the same side for two consecutive nights. Experts also recommend alternating the direction of turning each time—the goal is to vary the position of the embryo as much as possible.
Continue turning until day 18, but then leave the eggs alone for the last few days.

STEP 4 — HATCHING

In the final days before hatching. the eggs may be observed shifting about on their own as the fetus becomes active. The chick will eventually peck a small hole in the large end of the egg and take its first breath. It is normal at this point for the chick to rest for six to 12 hours while its lungs adjust before continuing to hatch. Resist the urge to help with the hatching process—it’s easy to cause injury!

Once the chick is free from the egg, let it dry off in the warmth of the incubator before moving it a brooder, where it will spend the first weeks of its life.

How to Bake a Cake: A Step-by-Step Guide

How-To: Cake 101

Follow these easy tips for success every time you bake.

Prep Ingredients
First, set out your ingredients.

Measurements Matter
Take the time to be precise. Accurate measurements mean tastier results.

Bring All Ingredients to Room Temperature
Measure your ingredients while the butter and eggs warm up. Batter mixes best when ingredients are at room temperature.

Check Egg Sizes
Large eggs are the most common for baking.

Preheat
Preheat your oven for at least 20 minutes. Use an oven thermometer so you'll know if your oven is running hot or cold.

Oven Racks
Position racks in the center of the oven.

Sifting
Use a mesh strainer if your recipe calls for sifting. Just tap the sides and take your time.

Parchment-Paper Lining
Trace the cake pan on parchment paper and cut just inside the lines.

Butter the Pan
Butter the pan with softened butter or nonstick spray. Line the pan with parchment paper — this will help your cake release perfectly — and butter the parchment.

Flour the Pan
Coat the sides, bottom and corners of the pan, then remove excess. The butter and flour combination will help the cake come out of the pan easily once baked. Remove excess flour when prepping the pan.

Preparing a Bundt Pan
With Bundt pans, take care to butter all the nooks and crannies, then flour the pan. You're ready to add your batter.

Baking
Only fill the cake pan to 2/3 high. Use the center rack of the oven for even cooking.

Rotate the Pan
Halfway through the cooking time, rotate the pan 180 degrees.

Done
The cake is done when it's firm to the touch.

Toothpick Test
A skewer inserted into the center should come out clean.

Cooling
Cool in the pan on a rack for five to 10 minutes, then invert the cake onto a cooling rack. Be careful — the pan may still be hot.

Bundt Cake Cooling
For a Bundt cake, invert onto a platter. Perfect baking can be a piece of cake! Watch our how-to video for more.

How to Bake a Cake 03:00

For cake bakers, here are the basics of mixing, prepping and baking.

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